I found out about Green House from a Romanian NGO that I appreciate a lot. The fact that they selected this restaurant as an example, due to their culinary practices, determined me to place it at the top of my list. That's how I realised that sustainable practices don't necessarily equal excellent food.
Carrying the highest possible expectations, I enter Green House on a rainy day. To my surprise, the restaurant is so full that I can barely find a seat. Then I quickly figure out why. Some of the speakers at the European Parliament's degrowth conference, which I am also attending, came here for dinner. At least 25 people and a lot of fuss, but I have no choice.
After warning me that the waiting time is a bit long, the waiter first invites me to sit at a small table with stools, right next to the entrance. I take a seat, but I realise that I have no chance to observe details and take notes. So I ask him to allow me to move on a sofa around the nearest corner, which gives me an overview of the whole space. Much better.
Will I have difficulties choosing?
I receive the menu. The covers are made of leather, hopefully synthetic. I'm searching for mind blowing culinary experiences, for surprisingly creative combos of ingredients that make my choice difficult. However, judging by the name of the dishes, nothing spectacular. I feel the disappointment creeping in. But who knows, I might as well have the same sort of surprise that I experienced at the Hungarian restaurant.
I choose to have tofu shakshuka as the main course and some tiramisu for dessert. Meanwhile, I notice the surroundings. Simple, minimalist, green design. Green sofas and chairs, green on the walls. The plants seem too similar to be natural. I touch a leaf. Plastic. About 60 plastic plants. Is that why they called it Green House?
I hope the food lives up to the expectations
The main course arrives faster than I thought it would. I bite a tofu cube. A creamy elastic texture, with a very slight bitter nigari aftertaste. Unfortunately, without being previously marinated, it's kind of tasteless. But the onion and tomato stew should complement it pretty well, I thought. I taste the red sauce first, then I combine it with the tofu and I feel the need for some extra spices. The one element that elevates the dish is the fermented cream, with its refreshing sour taste. I would ask for some more toast, if the waiter wasn't already overwhelmed.
Once I finish eating the shakshuka, I notice the plate. Beautiful. A black colour that looks matte but shines with the light, a minimalist style that highlights the food.
The desert comes shortly after, placed on a similar plate. It looks great! After a few teaspoons, I realise it is a raw desert and I will probably not be able to eat it all. That is because too much cashew nuts make me feel like throwing up.
Would I come again?
Overall, I'd say the culinary experience at Green House was rather mediocre. Perhaps the noise and the fact that I could not enjoy the beautiful jazz music in the background also contributed to this conclusion. But in terms of taste and space design, they rather disappointed me. If I visited Brussels again, they would definitely not be so high on the list, but I would give them another chance sometime.
