Here I am again in Budapest in March 2024, on my way to the training center of the Civil College Foundation, located 75 kilometres away from the Hungarian capital. Arriving on a Sunday morning, at 9 AM, I stop at a small cafe near the train station, waiting for the opening of the vegan restaurant that I identified when I was still at home. 

Szabad Bistró Új Hely is on my way to the international bus station from where I will continue my journey to Kunbábony. It is located at the intersection of two small streets. The front door is a clear clue that the restaurant is in the basement of the building. If it weren't so cold, I'd probably sit at one of the two tables occupying a street parking spot.

Eclectic blend of styles and moods

I walk in and the first thing that stands out is the rap music, the underground style of the place and the waiters' relaxation. The place seems to be a former cellar, with large metal windows decorated by natural plants, with bricks on half of the curved ceiling and white lime on the other half. On the walls, you can still see the brick here and there, on top of which they hang up some abstract paintings with various geometric shapes. From far, the circles, diamonds and hexagons seem woven, but as you approach you can clearly see they are actually made of thinly painted black and gold lines. 

The furniture is regular, except for the metal bar stools, which have an industrial-style wheel pattern on the back. On the outside, the bar has green, white and yellow pieces of wood, which brightens up the place a bit. To access the kitchen, you have to pass through a wooden structure, on top of which there are some old radios. Here, one waiter is preparing the cutlery and trays. Behind him, there is a rather shady entrance towards the kitchen, separated by a yellow dirty material hanging from the walls.

Let's find out what food options I have

There are many tables in the restaurant and already plenty of people. I am followed by a group of 4 people, then two couples, and later on another couple with two dogs.

I receive the menu and I am instantly disappointed. I chose this place specifically to taste the vegan shrimps, and now I realise that the food is more of a fast food type: a few humus starters; bacon, parmesan, sausage and shrimp loaded potatoes and many burgers. The rice bacon carbonara sounds tempting, but I eventually order a tarragon soup and shrimps.

Did I make a good choice?

They arrive together, quite quickly. The soup looks good, a whitish broth probably made with vegetable cream, with parsley on top and lemon next to it. The first hot spoonful reveals numerous vegetables: sliced mushrooms, peas, carrot half-slices and green onion. After a few minutes of waiting for it to cool down, the sour taste of the soup delights my taste buds. I can't feel the tarragon, but the soup is tasty. I eat it pretty quickly, with the shrimps in mind.

The shrimp came in a clay dish, slightly chipped. They are coated in a super crispy deep fried dough, sprinkled with fresh parsley. Next to them there is a small transparent glass bowl with a sweet and sour sauce that is a bit too hot for me. I taste the shrimp and analyse. It's whitish on the inside and the chewy texture resembles a real shrimp. It also has a subtle fish flavour, but too mild for my taste. Together with the sauce, however, it is more than satisfying. I would order another portion to take out, especially since they have cardboard packaging and recycled napkins, but I realise I don't have enough time.

So I ask for the bill, pay, and say goodbye to the waiter who hums softly every time he passes by with a tray of food in hand. Good food, but not extraordinary.