I'm only passing through Frankfurt. I have a few hours for a culinary experience, during the most unsuitable time of the day. It's not lunch yet and I'm having a hard time finding anything open other than coffee shops. On the Happy Cow map, I can only identify two options close enough to my train station. One of them has appetising pictures, but almost no experience, since it has been inaugurated recently. Why not, I encourage myself, as I start heading for Tonka.

After exiting the surface train, the road takes you through the narrow streets of a quiet neighbourhood. Nature really exploded this May, painting all the plants in raw green. The restaurant’s entrance is located on the corner, at the intersections of two streets.

It is almost empty inside, with a single table taken by a senior couple. The waiter greets me, assuring me that it is indeed open, and thus learns that I do not speak any German. I sit at a table in the middle of the salon, from where I can observe my surroundings.

Classic design, with natural decorations

When I said salon earlier, I meant it. The large room reminds me of old-fashioned halls, with wooden panelling on the walls and tiles on the floor, decorated a few decades ago. The furniture and the bar are also made of solid wood, and the only splash of colour is given by the round burgundy cushions.

On the table with its worn-out legs, there is a small vase and a menu with 5 brown pages, tied together by a metal ring. I start browsing it quickly and I realise that it's in vain, since it's only in German. As the waiter approaches me, I admire the gorgeous decoration in the small crystal vase: a few natural pink and white four-petaled flowers, a few dried purple ones, a green sprig of wheat and a small orange cudgel. 

The waiter confirms. As they have just launched the restaurant, they haven't had enough time to translate the menu into English. As he kindly translates it verbally , I realise my choice will be a difficult one. 

Local ingredients and care for the environment

I learn that the entire menu is based on vegan, seasonal, regionally produced and therefore sustainable ingredients. The baked fennel with potatoes and the celery cooked in 4 ways are the two dishes from my shortlist. And as much as I love fennel, the idea of relying on one sole ingredient and playing with sounds wonderful. So I go for the second option.

While waiting for the main course, I enjoy some water kefir, a fermented drink flavoured with rhubarb. It is served in a tall wine glass, decorated with a slice of rhubarb, showcasing the gradient colour of this wonderful plant: from green to deep pink, with bright green spots. It's much more acidic than I've been able to get using water kefir, so I ask how they make it. It seems that the addition of fruit helps the fermentation, and therefore the acidity. 

But there is more to come. The waiter brings a small appetiser: a bowl with some black lentils, fermented with onions and carrot cubes. It reminds me of my dinner at Verdo, in Brussels: both restaurants offered appetisers as welcome gifts and had textile napkins. It seems that attention to detail is common in fine dining places. 

Depth of flavours, despite using few ingredients

Here comes the main course. As it was expected, every item on the plate contains celery, one way or another. Surprisingly, the star of the dish infused only a subtle taste into the extra-smooth mash, so I wonder if they tempered it with some potatoes. The little squares of marinated onion on top complement it perfectly, adding taste and texture. And even though I usually stay away from raw onions, I have to admit that something fresh and refreshing was also needed on the plate.

The generous slice of the steak-like celery was slowly cooked al dente. You meet some resistance when cutting it with the knife and it feels chewy once you bite it. The surrounding sauce is also made out of celery, according to the waiter. It is very salty, has a strong smoky flavour and you can easily spot some orange coloured oil drops on its surface. It’s a bit too much if you taste it separately, but it is suitable when accompanying the mild mash.

The fourth element of the dish is the praline. It does not have a prominent taste, so I assume it has been introduced instead of some classic rice, to calm down all those intense flavours. 

All in all, I love the combination of taste and textures, and greatly appreciate the chef’s imagination. The celery dish is quite filling after the appetiser, but also leaves room for dessert.

How long since your last baked cheesecake?

I usually avoid buying cheesecake, as most of the versions I've come across use a ton of raw cashew, making me feel nauseous halfway through. 

Tonka’s version, however, is baked. It’s made out of soy cream, on top of a thin dough crust, with a splash of berry sauce adding a touch of sweetness. It's creamy yet light, so you do not struggle at all to finish it. It somehow reminds me of my mum’s vegan Easter cake.

Other details that make Tonka a sustainable restaurant

I already mentioned the regional and seasonal ingredients, the textile napkins and natural decorations. But there is another element that certifies that sustainability at Tonka is more than just a marketing slogan. Textile towels are replacing the classic paper rolls in the restroom. Moreover, you can find there some organic rosemary and ginger natural soap, as well as certified vegan and organic absorbents. My visit to the restroom made me appreciate the concept even further. With a satisfied grin on my face, I paid and said goodbye, hoping to return someday.

Throughout my stay in the restaurant, the waiter seemed to be having a great time, both humming and whistling to the rhythm of the jazz music, while helping the few customers. At the end, he asked me how I found out about them and why I chose to have lunch in such a new place. He seemed glad to know that their vegan pictures are successful on Happy Cow. I highly recommend the experience!