It was still early in the morning when I started heading for Liu Lin, a small Taiwanese restaurant that appeared to be vegan on Happy Cow. As I open the front door and enter, I see that only two tables are taken. But I am so glad I arrived already, since I can immediately hear a conversation over the phone, booking all the remaining tables for lunch.
The tables for two are right in the middle. I can't say that I'm exactly happy with this situation, since I can't easily notice what's happening around me. The restaurant is so small and packed with furniture that another customer knocks over the tiny pot on my table with her coat. The plant lands on the ground, along with some soil. While she is apologising, a young woman appears and brings me the menu, cleans and puts everything back as it was.
Somehow limited, but amazing menu
The menu fits on one laminated A4 page. But it seems you don't need much to impress. I scan it once, then one more time. I would order at least 12 of the 17 dishes and I wouldn't say a definite no to the other remaining 5 dishes. I would only avoid the rice ones, of which I'm not a fan of. Spring rolls, calamari, shrimp and wontons as appetisers, three main dishes with rice, two with noodles, three types of soups, two salads and two desserts.
I eventually choose the calamari and the Chinese Botanical soup, which is accompanied by a variety of toppings: wonton, seaweed, scallions, edamame, Chinese cabbage, shiitake, soy meat, tofu, green onion and cilantro. Ecstasy.
While waiting for my order, the restaurant fills up. Two more groups arrive, choosing to huddle at the tables outside, even though it's still quite chilly for May.
A blast of flavours and textures in one single plate
First, I taste the vegan squid. I'm so surprised by the texture that I have to check on the website if Liu Lin's notion of vegan excludes marine food. I find out what it is made of, while enjoying a dish that I used to love as a former omnivore. The vegan squid is based on konnyaku, a potato-like root with gelatinous consistency, covered in a golden crust. I like it so much that I plan to look for konnyaku in Romania and try to experiment with it.
But let's move on to the soup, until it cools down completely. I don't even know where to start. On top, there is a well-browned wonton with an extremely appetising appearance. Its top is still crispy, but the bottom that has been soaking in soup reveals a tofu paste with turmeric and greens. I get distracted by a brown, firm, crunchy bar. I bite it and a taste of miso invades my mouth. However, I would not be able to say what it is made of. Probably some soy meat, as the soup is making it increasingly chewy. I also sip from the soup itself, and the coriander announces its presence. The edamame and carrot are cooked just right, so they crunch easily between my teeth. Last but not least, I discover the dumplings that could be on my menu forever without getting bored. The classic ones are filled with carrot, onion and greens. But there is another one, slightly elongated, that is a bit different: you can spot pieces of onion and carrot through the slightly thicker dough, which wraps the sweet creamy paste imitating minced meat. As I still have difficulties eating with chopsticks, my only regret is that I struggle a bit to catch the rice noodles left on the bottom of the plate.
The verdict? Nowhere else have I been so impressed by the variety of flavours and textures. It is, until now, my favourite dining experience. And I have yet to taste the dessert.
The ice cream, unexpectedly creamy
At the checkout, I ask if I can get the ice cream to go to make room for the people waiting for their turn next to the entrance. As they don't make the dessert themselves, it comes in a cardboard box. I later found out that the Heppie Cow brand is run by one man, who produces more than 123 varieties of ice cream, all vegan and creamy, unlike the frozen fruits sorbet that you get in Bucharest gelaterias.
I chose Ferrero Rocker and I don't regret it. The ice cream is extra creamy, with a generous topping of chocolate, caramel and hazelnut. I appreciate the cardboard packaging and the little wooden spoon hidden in the lid, although I am aware that they will not be recycled. I devour it slowly in a park near Liu Lin, enjoying the sun rays as a farewell present.
